The Difference in Hair Color Treatments - Khamit Kinks


So what is the right process to color treat natural hair? With so much talk about hair coloring, what process is right for your hair type?

If you checked out our last blog: Before you color, we recommend: whether you are new to hair coloring or a pro with years of changing your look, a consultation is very beneficial in learning what is best for your hair before, during and after your color process. This is the time to talk strategy about your hair care needs. (Before You Color)

With that said: what color do you want? At Khamit Kinks, no color is safe, but finding the right color for you is important to us. Are you looking to become a blonde bombshell? Auburn hottie? Or perhaps purple highlights or green undertones is more your style?

Let’s talk chemistry to your natural tresses. Our hair is mostly keratin. It grows from follicles within the skin. Hair is made up of mostly protein and long chains of amino acids. As hair follicles grow (from below the skins surface- the root) they have a specific construction. The hair shaft is the hair protruding from the scalp, and the tip is where our hair is narrower and is farthest from the root.

The Difference in Hair Color Treatments - Khamit Kinks

Hair is made up of three layers of overlapping keratin: the cuticle (outer layer of the hair), the cortex (intervening layer, where pigment granules give color to hair) and the medulla (“marrow” and inner most layer). Different amounts of medulla may be presents in different hair types. Medulla is found mostly in course hair and will be absent from naturally blonde or very fine hair. (We will explore this in our blog for 4c texture- Coming Soon!)

If your natural hair color is dark, coloring your hair light will take it through a process. Your hair must first be lightened to “decolorize” the hair. There are different levels of developer to lift the hairs desired color. This process is done with peroxide or developer, which opens the hair cuticle so the dye can reach the inner cortex of the hair shaft and deposit the color. This may be in the form temporary or permanent hair color. Be realistic about how much time you will spend with your stylist to achieve your new look.

Lets look at the types of coloring treatments available and how they work:


  • Contains no ammonia
  • Does not require mixing with developer
  • Used to blend gray or enhance natural color
  • Cannot lighten hair
  • Will last varying lengths of time depending on the product used


  • Henna is a plant based hair dye
  • Similar to semi-permanent hair color, henna cannot lighten hair
  • 100% pure henna only deposits color on the surface, not inside the cortex
  • Pure henna produces color in the range of orange-red color
  • Everybody’s experience will be different depending on the structure


  • Contains no ammonia
  • Is mixed with a low-volume developer to help open the cuticle
  • Great for blending gray that is fine and porous, enhance natural color or refresh, tone highlights, and color correction.
  • Will last longer than semi-permanent depending on the product used


  • Permanent color lifts and takes out original hair color and deposits new color in.
  • Colors are mixed with developer with volume as low as 10 and up to 40
  • Only use permanent dye on roots and grays and if you want to create a lighter shade in color.
  • Will last longer than Semi and Demi- permanent colors. It is the most damaging of the three processes.


  • Get a hair consultation! Let your hair salon or stylist know what your hopes are before your coloring appointment, especially if you are thinking of a major color change. This is also a good time to talk about your hair coloring history.
  • To extend the color of your hair keep it well conditioned. Coloring your hair will make your hair drier and more brittle than normal. Conditioned hair holds color better and makes the hair shinier and brighter.
  • Try to avoid over exposing your colored hair to the sun or chlorine. The sun may fade your hair color and chlorine may damage the color.